It’s easy to understand the hype surrounding this place. And no, I am not referring to the deli and charcuterie branch located underneath the Perkins Road Overpass. I am actually discussing the lesser-known City Pork Brasserie & Bar, or the more recently constructed establishment found on Jefferson Highway, just around the corner from Towne Center and a variety of well-respected national chains. But thank goodness, City Pork brings a local influence to an area of town beset with the aforementioned chains I have often lamented. While the Perkins Road Overpass location may be known as a casual neighborhood deli, sandwich shop, and charcuterie, the brassiere and bar is clearly a more upscale and refined version of the award-winning restaurant near City Park.
For those of you have read any of my past reviews or have visited New Orleans, I would liken City Pork dichotomy to the twin restaurants Cochon Restaurant and Cochon Butcher. The Tchoupitoulas pair have a similar relationship: one is a much nicer sit-down restaurant conducive for a special occasion, while the other is a much mellower and informal dining spot that is great for relaxing with friends.
Still, the two sets of sister restaurants do have their share of differences. Cochon Restaurant and Cochon Butcher are right next door to each other, while City Pork’s two locations are roughly four miles apart. Also, the Cochon Restaurant does not boast quite as much as being a casual eatery. Whereas, brasserie is a term applied to unpretentious French restaurants, similar to a tavern, which serve alcohol and simple, hearty food. But clearly City Pork is not serving mere pub food. In fact, the innovative variations of classic dishes and simplistic food items do not evoke any comparisons to other food-serving bars in town. Instead, it straddles the line, and very well if I do say so myself, between fine and casual dining.
The fine woodwork of the outdoor patio at the front entrance and the dim lighting inside set the mood for what promises to be any enjoyable meal. The restaurant is comprised of a single dining room, with tables occupying the majority of the flood and a bar positioned along the right-hand wall. There are several large TVs available for those wishing to catch some Sport Center highlights or even watch a game while you sip on your cocktail or beer and make small talk with the bar tender. I observed a number of individuals who spent more than an hour or so simply occupying a bar stool, drinking their beverage, and engaging in conversation. The entire setting is very relaxed and welcoming. However, if there is one complaint I have regarding the ambience, it is related to the relatively intense volume of the music playing. The restaurant can become very loud at times, and we found ourselves straining to hear our server or even communicate with each other.
In addition to the bar and the table seating, there is a smaller bar positioned along the far wall which separate the kitchen from the rest of the establishment. There is a small cooler behind the counter with a number of visible cheeses and meats that looked quite appetizing as we awaited our meal. In the rear left corner there is another very small bar which allows you to peek back into the kitchen. I’m curious how often such seating is supplied to customers, as I only saw staff members take a seat on either of the available bar stools.
The kitchen is in the restaurant’s rear and is easily visible for anyone wishing to view the work leading up to their food’s arrival. I have always enjoyed restaurants’ with such an ‘open’ policy. There should be nothing to hide when it comes to the preparation of food.
Our party consisted of my date, myself, and two mutual friends. We were seated at a table for four near the back end of the dining room. The center location was perfect for both people watching and taking in the entirety of City Pork.
A server arrived shortly after we were seated and allowed us some time to look over the menu after taking our drink order. I must commend him for a job well-done throughout the entire meal. He was highly knowledgeable of all dishes and was more than willing to answer any questions we had. One of my friend’s was a bit unfamiliar with the nature of the charcuterie board, and so our server took the time to offer his recommendations and describe all available items. He was also very patient whenever he arrive at our table. Many times he stumbled into a heated conversation. But rather than interrupting the speaker he simply waited a few moments before we acknowledged him. For the record, I was more than willing to cease any and all conversation whenever he would return. I figured it was best not to keep the man waiting on our petty dialogue. The meal was never rushed, and we were given an excessive amount of time before the bill was even mentioned. It was quite the slow-paced and comfortable meal that is suitable for catching up with friends.
As far as food goes, we started off with a serving of the pork debris spring rolls as an appetizer. The rolls were comprised of pork, of course, along with Asian slaw and spicy peanut sauce. I did not sample a roll, but they seemed to be a bit hit at the table.
For our entrees my date selected the Big Pig with house-cut fries and I chose the duck confit greens (salad). Our friends settled on the Big Pig with house chips and the Pick 5 charcuterie board. I seem to recall the five selections being the liver pate, andouille, St. André brie, house-smoked Gouda, and aged gruyere.
The Big Pig is a pulled pork sandwich adorned with coleslaw and comes with a serving of house barbecue sauce. It is one of the least expensive items on the menu, only nine dollars, and seemed very pleasing to my date and our friend. My date did remark that the fries needed some salt and unfortunately there were no condiments at any of the tables. I respect restaurants who do not provide condiments, but it’s a bold move to make. It demonstrates confidence in the quality of their food and its seasonings, but it can look pretty bad if the seasoning isn’t up to par.
In addition to the selected meats and cheeses, the charcuterie board contained several toast crackers and a variety of fresh fruits and jam including apple, grapes, and strawberries. There was also some pickled green beans, pickled corn, pickled jalapenos, pickled mustard greens, and a pickled bay leaf for garnish. Everything was served on a plank of wood which looked as though it was extracted from an actual tree stump. I enjoyed the bizarre food vehicle and found that it fit the ‘mood’ of the adorning foods.
I only tasted a few of the items so my overall opinion of the board does not encompass all aforementioned items. However, the pickled items were all delicious (aside from the corn which I did not taste) and the liver pate provided an interesting salty taste which complemented the pickled items and presumably countered the fresh fruits. Liver pate is something that’s worth a try, but after a couple of bites you become pretty bored with it. By the way, I don’t recommend kissing anyone directly after consuming it. There was also some mustard provided which honestly was a bit lackluster.
But what about my salad? Well, considering that it was a whopping $16 I expected something spectacular. When it initially arrived I questioned whether or not I had mistakenly received the local greens dish, which consists of bacon lardons, gorgonzola crumbles, and pepper jelly. My suspicion was due in large part to the indisputable red hue of the meat. Also, its crisp texture seemed more reminiscent of bacon than anything else. I expressed my concerns to the server who clarified that it was indeed the duck confit salad.
And so, begrudgingly, I dug in. If the salad lacks anything it’s certainly not bite. The smoked cheddar and the gorgonzola vinaigrette form a potent combination which pummels your taste buds through each and every bite. The cheddar is very sharp, but a nice companion with the duck confit. The sliced carrots, cherry tomatoes, and fresh lettuce, are tried-and-true salad ingredients but still seemed a touch above average because of the cheese and vinaigrette. The duck was crispy and smoky, with just the right amount of salt, but its presence was severely lacking give the dish’s price. I expected larger, more succulent pieces of smoke duck rather than the smaller crumbles which are hard to distinguish from pork.
I enjoyed my meal very much once I managed to get over the misunderstanding involving the duck. It was pricey, but very enjoyable. I now intend to visit City Pork Deli and Charcuterie to try their delicious sounding breakfast. And perhaps when I am filling a little more flexible I will return to the brasserie to try one of the more lavish entrees.
This is truly one of the better new restaurants in town, and I hope diners begin paying attention to what’s going on at both City Pork locations. Perhaps City Pork can help pick up the slack in this town which lacks exquisite barbecue. One can only hope so.
Duck Confit Salad 8/10
Cost: 6/10
Dining Area/Décor: 9/10
Customer Service: 9.5/10
Location: 8/10
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